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A look at the profile:
When it comes to window and door profiles, there are several common types, such as 828 and 888. These numbers refer to the width of the frame in millimeters. For example, an 828 profile is approximately 8.3 cm wide, while brands like Guangzhou Nordson and Feng Aluminum are well-known manufacturers. The standard thickness is usually around 1.2 mm. The 828 profile offers strong sealing performance, with a semi-circular top on the track for the rollers, and a wider front frame for the sliding window. However, if you can go for the 888 profile, it’s generally better, especially for high-floor neighbors. Just be cautious—some fake or imitation 888 or 898 profiles might be sold as real ones. Also, the adhesion of the surface paint varies. Powder-coated finishes tend to have stronger adhesion compared to regular paint, which can be easily checked by gently scratching the surface with a nail.
Next, take a closer look at the glass:
Glass quality is crucial and can often be assessed visually. Check for flatness and look for any defects such as bubbles, inclusions, scratches, lines, or fog spots. Poor-quality glass may deform over time, reducing its transparency, mechanical strength, and thermal stability. It's also important to examine how the glass is processed—make sure the dimensions are accurate, the edges are smooth, and the patterns are clearly defined.
There are two main types of installed glass: ordinary flat glass and tempered glass. While they may look similar at first glance, tempered glass is usually marked with a "3C" certification and a stamped label (like "XX Steel") on one corner. To identify tempered glass, you can observe stress patterns under light reflection. Tempered glass has internal stress lines that can appear as blue-gray, dark, or fuzzy circular shapes when viewed from different angles. This method is helpful before installation.
Third, check the hardware components like the bottom wheel, door locks, and other accessories:
The long-term performance of a sliding window largely depends on the quality of the pulley. Before installing the window, inspect the pulley for any defects such as burrs, misalignment, or uneven rotation. Once installed, ensure the sliding motion is smooth without excessive resistance or vibration. The door and window locks should close properly—poor-quality locks may feel rough or unresponsive, while good ones should be both flexible and secure.
In terms of overall performance, key factors include firmness, air tightness, water resistance, and wind pressure resistance. Based on practical experience, here are ten important notes for balcony construction:
1. The frame size must be made exactly according to the actual measurements of the balcony. It should not be too small, and the top must reach the roof or beam level.
2. The 90-degree corners of the aluminum frame should be fixed using expansion screws. If the wall is weak, fill the gaps with foam and seal the outer seams with silicone.
3. The middle track frame should be higher than the original balcony railing to prevent leaks. Seal the upper and lower seams with silicone and make sure the opening is smooth to avoid damaging the sliding mechanism.
4. Avoid drilling screws directly into the top of the aluminum slide. Instead, drill from the side or below, and seal the holes with silicone.
5. Fill the gap between the frame and the wall with foam, especially if the gap is large, and then seal the outside with silicone.
6. Ensure all grooves are free of burrs for a smoother finish.
7. Add rubber seals between the glass and the frame, similar to those used on sliding doors in living rooms.
8. When pouring cement under the frame, make sure to create a proper slope to direct water away. After curing, keep the area moist and apply silicone between the slope and the frame, followed by a waterproof coating.
9. Fix the lower frame to the concrete platform using iron sheets for added stability.
10. It’s best to drill the air conditioning pipe hole through the concrete platform rather than the glass to avoid damage.
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